PAPUA NEW GUINEA

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 1999 for Papua New Guinea. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

PAPUA NEW GUINEA "The Land of the Unexpected" is one of the last windows into the Stone Age. It is a country of striking contrasts where more than 1000, diverse tribes coexist with a modern economy based on world-class copper and gold mines.

It is the largest and most diverse of the Pacific Island nations. Covering a land area of nearly 180,000 square miles, it is nearly twice as large as the United Kingdom, and the size of Oregon and Idaho combined.

The geography is dramatic and tremendously varied. The country boasts great outcroppings of mountains ranging in height up to 15,000 feet, as well as vast river systems and some of the world's most extensive swamps. A number of Papua New Guinea's islands border the Coral and Solomon seas. The coastal waters contain live coral reefs, some rivaling Australia's Great Barrier Reef in all but size.

Much of the country's appeal lies in its people. The more than 3.7 million inhabitants are sparsely scattered throughout the country, with concentrations in a number of towns as well as in the highlands. Physical characteristics vary widely, and over 800 distinct languages have been identified, some spoken by as few as 30 to 40 individuals. This diversity, which has been the subject of intense anthropological and linguistic research, also poses unique political challenges as the government attempts to strike a balance between local autonomy and national authority, which will permit orderly political and economic development.

Independent since 1975, Papua New Guinea retains an Australian flavor and a large expatriate population in its modern sector. The tropical climate is ideal for snorkeling, scuba diving, and sailing.

Living in this island nation presents rare opportunities to observe a traditional society coping with major social, cultural, and political transformations, while striving to maintain the splendor of its history.

MAJOR CITY

Port Moresby

Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, is a sprawling town with a population of over 300,000 (1998 est.) located on hilly terrain on the southern Papua coast. Because it lies within a small rain shadow, the city's geography and climate differ substantially from other parts of Papua New Guinea. During the dry season (June-September), hills in the city dry up and turn brown. However, the climate, although hot, is usually pleasant: low humidity (60%), steady trade winds, daytime highs of 80°F, and nighttime lows in the high 60s°F.

During the rainy season, which coincides with the southern summer (October-May), daytime highs frequently reach the low 90s°F; 80% humidity is normal. However, lengthy afternoon rain showers cool things off, and nights are usually in the low to mid 70s°F. At this time of the year, the landscape in Port Moresby is green.

The old center of town is located, lies on a peninsula that helps protect the large harbor from the Coral Sea. A number of modern high rise buildings punctuate the skyline, contrasting with the traditional Motuan villages on stilts along the shoreline. The city's shipping docks and a yacht marina are located along the shore.

Next to the city center are Touaguba and Ela Makana Hills, sites of Port Moresby's best housing and the location of all the Embassy housing. Both benefit from cool ocean breezes and spectacular views of harbor and sea. Centered on a small business district by the harbor, over the years, Port Moresby has expanded via suburban developments some 11 kilometers inland. Boroko, the main shopping area, and adjacent Gordons are the largest middle-class areas of Port Moresby. Both are located 6 to 8 kilometers inland. Jackson's Airport, which can handle 747s, is 11 kilometers from downtown via a newly constructed highway.

Papua New Guinea's capital center is the suburb of Waigani, 8 kilometers from downtown. A six-lane boulevard leads to several modern high rise buildings that house government offices. Waigani is also the site of an 18-hole golf course and several diplomatic missions.

The Parliament House, National Museum and a small theater for live performances are also in Waigani, as is the Prime Minister's official residence. The University of Papua New Guinea, and the National Botanical Gardens, home of one of the world's largest orchid collections as well as a fine sample of Papua New Guinea's exotic birds, is nearby.

Utilities

Electricity is 240v, 50hz. Power can be erratic; surges and spikes are common. Employees are advised to bring voltage protectors and surge suppressors. Those who own computers should bring an uninterruptible power supply. The water supply is usually dependable.

Food

Although some imported items are significantly more expensive than in the United States, most foods used by American or Asian families are regularly available in Port Moresby. Supermarkets and pharmacies resemble their counterparts in Australia rather than those of other developing countries.

A wide variety of meats, fish, canned goods, fruits, vegetables and frozen goods is available. Quality in general is high, with the exception of imported fresh fruits and vegetables which are sometimes offered in poor condition. Most food items are imported from Australia, although limited items imported from the United States are also found in the stores. Locally produced fruits, vegetables, fish, seafood, chicken, eggs and beef are also available. Bread is baked locally. Fresh and UHT "long life" milk, both imported, are widely available. A wide range of good quality dairy products, including ice cream, is always available. Major supermarkets maintain delicatessen sections stocked with a good selection of sausage and cheeses. Coffee produced in Papua New Guinea is high quality and flavorful. However, instant coffee is imported and decaffeinated is not available in the local market. There is a bottling plant in Port Moresby and a wide variety of soft drinks are always available.

Wines available locally are primarily from Australia and New Zealand.

In general, prices of imported and processed foods are 1.5 to 2 times more expensive than in the United States. Locally produced fruits, vegetables and sea food, however, are quite inexpensive. Some all-American items which are not quite the same locally and which employees may wish to bring with them are chocolate chips, peanut butter, decaffeinated coffee and special convenience foods, like canned pumpkin or pudding mixes. Candles are expensive and not good quality.

Clothing

Lightweight, summer clothes are most useful in this tropical climate. Cotton clothes and underwear are most comfortable for activities out of doors. Locally available shoes, clothing and fabrics are limited in choice, expensive and generally not good quality.

Fashion tends to the practical and casual. During the wet season, an umbrella is most useful. Raincoats are too hot. However, raincoats, ponchos, sweaters and light-weight jackets are useful for travel in the highlands, where temperatures are significantly cooler. Light sweaters or wraps are also useful in Port Moresby after sundown during the cooler months. Hats and sunglasses are necessary even for short periods in the sun.

Men: During the day, short-sleeved, open neck shirts with slacks are customary. Tropical formal wear includes a summer-weight suit and tie, or long-sleeved white shirt and tie with slacks. Tropical informal attire (for most social events) is an open-neck sport shirt worn with slacks. Tropical floral print shirts, like those widely sold in Honolulu, are currently fashionable for informal evening wear.

Women: Lightweight dresses and short-sleeved summer suits are worn to the office. Many women find pantyhose uncomfortable in the tropical heat and do not wear them. Slacks, walking shorts, and cotton skirts and dresses are acceptable for street wear and travel. Cotton underwear and sleepwear are most comfortable. Tropical formal evening wear is generally street-length cocktail dresses or suits. Tropical informal evening wear can be summer dresses or summer evening slacks and shirts.

Children: Primary and secondary students wear uniforms to school. Shorts, blue jeans, and t-shirts worn with sandals or athletic shoes are universally popular. Girls may want cotton dresses for dressier occasions. Children too should have hats and sunglasses.

Supplies and Services

Toiletries, cosmetics, medicines and common household articles normally used by American families are available locally. Many are U.S. brand names made by Australian subsidiaries. However, prices for toiletries are high and brands of cosmetics sold in the United States are not available. Bring a supply if they have special preferences. Hardware stores are well stocked, and kitchen-ware and household linen is available, although more expensive than in the United States.

Most medicines are available, but sold under brand names common in Australia. Ask your doctor for the generic name of the medication they will need in Port Moresby. Common medicines are sometimes considerably cheaper than in the United States.

Most basic services are available at varying levels of reliability. Dry cleaning and shoe repair are available, but expensive. There are good unisex hair salons which offer competent service at prices similar to those in the U.S. Garage and appliance repair services are spotty in quality and parts can be expensive.

Domestic Help

Female domestic servants who do general housework, laundry and child-minding are available, although those who are English speaking and well-trained are not easy to find. Competent cooks are very scarce. Families with small children usually rely on their domestic help for babysitting services. Current weekly wages for domestic help, working five days a week, range from $140 to $200 a month.

Religious Activities

Most major Christian denominations are represented in Port Moresby. Anglican, Assembly of God, Baptist, Roman Catholic, Lutheran, Seventh Day Adventist, Methodist, Mormon and Jehovah's Witnesses churches all have weekly services. Congregations include Papua New Guineans and foreigners. Ministers and priests are both expatriate and Papua New Guinean. Services are in English, pidgin or Motu. An Islamic congregation also meets weekly. There is no Jewish synagogue, or Hindu or Buddhist temple.

Education

Schools used by children of post personnel in Port Moresby include the Port Moresby International School (kindergarten through grade 12), the Ela Beach School (primary grades), and the Murray International School (primary grades). The schools employ national and expatriate teachers, many of whom are spouses of expatriates working in Papua New Guinea. The curriculum is similar to that followed in Australia. All three schools have extensive playing fields and sports programs. The Port Moresby International High School offers an International Baccalaureate program in grades 11 and 12. The school year begins at the end of January and ends in mid-December. It is broken into four terms approximately ten weeks in length, with a long vacation in December-January.

Sports

Sports available to everyone include golf, tennis, scuba diving, bush walking, jogging, softball, swimming, waterskiing, windsurfing, squash, snorkeling and sailing. Soccer and rugby are popular spectator sports. Little League Baseball is available to both boys and girls. Parents willing to help coach are always welcome.

Karate and dance schools take all ages. Diving lessons are offered on a regular basis. There are occasional theater productions by university, regional and amateur groups. The amateur theater group is open to new members. There are occasional choral presentations by church-based choirs. Exhibitions of contemporary and traditional art are organized at the National Gallery and Museum, which has a good permanent collection of traditional art as well as a small collection of live domestic birds and animals. The beautifully kept National Botanic Gardens feature an orchid exhibition and a walkthrough aviary and provide safe and beautiful picnic facilities for a small fee. There are several restaurants throughout the city, featuring both Asian and Western cuisine. Many expatriate residents are members of clubs, which run restaurants, bars and sporting facilities. The Port Moresby Yacht Club operates a marina in the city center. Another boat mooring facility is available for a fee a short distance out of town. There are also some secure night spots which offer discotheques, bars and slot machines.

There are no movie theaters, although a local hotel offers recent releases every Sunday night in a theater atmosphere. However, video tapes can be rented and satellite television us available.

Special Information

Crime is a serious problem in Port Moresby, and consists of everything from bag snatching and car jacking to armed robbery and rape. Much of the crime is committed by young men and boys who, if they have access to weapons, easily become violent. Widespread abuse of alcohol and marijuana aggravates the problem. Hijacking and highway robbery is common and makes road travel outside the towns dangerous. The few criminals notwithstanding, there have been no incidents of terrorism in PNG. Nor is xenophobia, or racial or religious animosity common.

OTHER CITIES

GOROKA, located in the central highlands 300 miles northwest of the capital, is a provincial headquarters with 22,000 residents. The center of European settlement in the region, the city has an animal husbandry station. Goroka's mile-high elevation contributes to its expanding tourist business. There is an airport here, as well as a major truck route heading east.

The port of KEREMA lies on Kerema Bay on the Gulf of Papua, in south-central Papua New Guinea. This became a regional seat in 1958 when the district (now provincial) headquarters was transferred from Kikori. Kerema has a fish-processing factory; rubber and coconuts are grown near the city. There is a road link to Malalawa and an airstrip. The population is approximately 4,000.

LAE is situated on Huan Gulf on New Guinea Island, approximately 200 miles north of Port Moresby. During World War II, it was occupied by the Japanese, and became a major supply base. The city suffered heavy bombings by Allied planes in that period, and was eventually occupied in September 1943 by the Australians. Today, Lae is a commercial center, and a base for air transport lines in the area gold fields. Lae has an estimated population of 80,000.

MADANG (formerly called Friedrich-Wilhelmshafen), with some 27,000 residents, is situated on Astrolabe Bay, on the country's eastern coast. The area is a center for the timber industry based in the Gogol forest. It also is a communications point for offshore islands, as well as a distribution hub. Agricultural products are exported from Madang; industries include engineering workshops and timber milling. This was the administrative center for a German colony abandoned because of malaria in 1899. Madang was the objective of an Australian drive along the coast in World War II. It was captured by Australian and U.S. forces in April 1944. A lighthouse in the harbor commemorates coast watchers who helped the Allies in the war.

RABAUL, situated on Simpson Harbor in the northeastern part of New Britain Island, was a major Japanese air force base after occupation in 1942 and, as such, was headquarters for the projected invasion of Australia. The city, surrounded by volcanoes, was damaged by the eruption of Matupi in 1937 and, consequently, the administrative government of the Trust Territory of New Guinea was moved to Lae. Rabaul had been the capital of German New Guinea in the early years of this century and, from 1920 to 1941, was the principal town of the Australian mandate. It is still a major port and has a population of nearly 18,000.

WEWAK is located on the country's northern coast, about 75 miles west of the mouth of the Sepik River. It was a Japanese base in World War II, bombed heavily by Americanforces in 1943. The Allied advance along the northern coast bypassed the city. Wewak is a port of call for coastal and Australian shipping. The economy is hindered by the primitive back-country conditions. The discovery of gold in the Sepik area in the 1930s led to the community's founding. The fields have since been abandoned. With over 23,000 residents, Wewak has an international airport and road links to Maprik and Paguwi.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Papua New Guinea lies in the southwest Pacific, just south of the equator and about 100 miles northeast of Australia. The largest of the Pacific Island nations, it includes the eastern half of the island of New Guinea which it shares with Indonesia and numerous offshore islands, the largest of which are New Britain, New Ireland, Bougainville, and Manus. Their combined surface area is 286,248 square miles, slightly larger than the state of California.

The main island comprises 85% of Papua New Guinea's total land area. A complex system of mountains extends from the eastern end of the islands to the western boundary with Indonesian Irian Jaya. Precipitous slopes, knife-sharp ridges, great outcroppings of mountains rising to heights of almost 15,000 feet, and broad upland valleys at altitudes of 5,000-10,000 feet characterize this area. Most of the terrain is covered by dense jungles of tropical rain forest. Large rivers comprising the world's twelfth largest riverine network flow to the south, north and east; few are navigable except by small boats in the lower reaches. The largest river, the Fly, which begins in the mountains of western Papua, flows over 700 miles, and can be navigated for 500 miles.

Between the northern and the central range of mountains lies the Central Depression, which contains the Sepik, Ramu, and Markham River valleys. Lowlands and rolling foothills of varying widths stretch along most of the coasts. Huge stretches of wetlands are common in the poorly-drained coastal areas. On the southwest littoral, the great delta plain of the Daru coast forms one of the world's most extensive swamps, exceeding 100,000 square miles.

The archipelagic areas of Papua New Guinea include three major islands-New Britain, New Ireland, and Bougainville-as well as a great variety of smaller, often very isolated island groups. The islands contain many volcanoes, both active and dormant; rich agricultural zones; and considerable mineral wealth. Thousands of coral reefs make the surrounding waters a mecca for marine biologists and scuba divers, while several of the smaller island groups, including the Trobriands and Manus Island, were the sites of classic anthropological studies.

Papua New Guinea lies wholly within the Tropics, and its climate is monsoonal. The "wet" northwest monsoon season extends from December to March and the "dry" southeast monsoon from May to October. Average annual rainfall is high, ranging from 80 to 100 inches for most districts. Although many areas have a wet and dry season, these terms are relative. Even in the so-called dry season, 2-4 inches of rain per month fall in most areas. Many areas receive more than 200 inches, but a few, like Port Moresby, lie in a rain shadow and receive 40 inches or less annually.

Although tropical, temperatures are not extreme. Most lowland, coastal, and island areas have a daily average temperature of 81°F, and seasonal variations are slight. In the highlands, temperature varies with altitude. At 6,000 feet, the average temperature is 61°F; daytime temperatures rise to 90°F and nighttime temperatures fall between 40°F and 50°E Lowland humidity is uniformly about 80% with very little seasonal variation. Humidity fluctuates more in the highlands where temperatures are lower.

Papua New Guinea's rugged geography has hindered the development of adequate transport and communication facilities. The lack of this infrastructure continues to inhibit the development of some of the interior areas. It also has a negative impact upon the entire process of social, political and economic integration.

Population

Papua New Guinea's population grows at about 2.3% per year and was estimated in 1998 at approximately 4.6 million. It is one of the most heterogeneous populations in the Pacific, including several thousand villages, most with only a few hundred people. Divided by language, customs, and traditions, some of these communities have engaged in tribal warfare with their neighbors for centuries. The isolation created by the mountainous terrain is so great that some groups, until recently, did not know that neighboring groups lived only a few kilometers away. Nearly 800 identified languages (20% of the world's languages) are spoken in Papua New Guinea.

Melanesian Pidgin is the lingua franca. An English cognate, Pidgin is relatively easy for Americans to learn and understand. English, the official language, is spoken by a rapidly increasing group of educated people.

Population density varies widely from the nearly uninhabited forests of Western Province, which has an average population density of 1 person/sq. km., to the relatively crowded Western Highlands, which reports 40 persons/sq. km. Although there is considerable urban drift to the cities of PNG, there are no recent statistical studies of the phenomenon. The UN Population Fund estimates that current growth rates are no higher than those measured in a 1980-90 study which showed 4.6% annual growth for Port Moresby and 2.7% annual growth for Lae on the north coast.

Though decreasing in size, there is still a relatively large expatriate community in PNG. About 10,000 Australians, 2,000 British, 3,000 New Zealanders, 2,000-2,600 Americans (mostly missionaries), and 5,000 Filipinos make up the bulk of an expatriate population estimated at 22,600. This number is decreasing as the government pursues a program to have Papua New Guineans take on jobs now held by expatriates.

Culture

Papua New Guinea is a young nation, made up of hundreds of smaller cultural groups, which speak nearly 800 separate languages. First loyalties are to family and clan. Strong attachment to the idea of a nation or obedience to government imposed regulations is common for the most part only among the educated elite. For most Papua New Guineans, the interface between traditional and modern economic and government systems is the "wantok system:" Wantok means literally "one talk," i.e., common language. It includes clansmen, relatives and friends who speak the same language. The wantok system involves people in an intricate network of rights and obligations extending well beyond the primary family. For a person who has prospered materially, the wantok system creates an obligation to assist other group members with gifts, money or jobs. To a Westerner, and occasionally to a Westernized Papua New Guinean, the wantok system may seem regressive or an impediment to modernization. However, most Papua New Guineans still regard it as part of the basic scaffolding of their social system. Forced to choose between obligations to the extended family and to their employers, many Papua New Guineans will choose the family first, which poses a problem for foreign managers.

Generally speaking traditional society in Papua New Guinea is male dominated and, in some areas, polygamous. Melanesian society generally does not have hereditary chiefs. Villages and clans are dominated by a Big Man, someone who has attained power and influence through demonstrated ability and the acquisition and sharing of property. Although most Papua New Guinea microsocieties feel that important matters should be decided by consensus, it is the Big Man who shapes the consensus. In Port Moresby, these structures are hidden, but they do exist and are important. Members of Parliament and senior government officials at both national and provincial levels often are Big Men in their own microsocieties or are close relatives of Big Men. Women are traditionally expected to be subservient to their male relatives; to be seen and not heard. Fewer girls than boys attend school and the rate of literacy for women is lower than for men. Bride price, which traditionally cemented social obligations between families and clans, is frequently abused in the modern economy, particularly in areas where cash incomes are high. This makes it hard for young men to get wives legally and reduces marriage in some cases to the purchase of women. Nevertheless, with increased education and economic opportunity, the gap between male and female is slowly closing.

As in many other developing countries, there is a steady flow of economic migrants from the rural areas to Papua New Guinea's few cities. Jobs, particularly for those with little education, are generally not available, and basic needs, which in the village are either produced by the family or gathered from the forest, are expensive. Most rural migrants to the cities live in shanty towns, called "settlements," which have few, if any, public services and where crime breeds and criminals take refuge.

Public Institutions

Papua New Guinea became self-governing on December 1, 1973. The Australian Government progressively transferred political and administrative responsibilities, and Papua New Guinea gained full independence on September 16, 1975.

The Constitution provides for a national government consisting of a Parliament and an independent Judicial system. The Parliament is a single-chamber legislature based on a modified Westminster system whose members are elected for 5-year terms under a system of universal adult suffrage. The last national election was held in June 1997.

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is Head of State; she is represented in Papua New Guinea by a Governor General who must be a citizen of Papua New Guinea and is required to act under the advice of the National Executive Council. Executive power is vested in the Cabinet (National Executive Council), led by the Prime Minister (Head of Government).

The National Executive Council is made up of members of the National Legislature (Parliament) who are chosen by the leader of the political party or coalition of parties that holds the most seats in the Parliament. Party influence is weak and members of Parliament are often elected on the basis of their prominence in local communities rather than their party affiliation. Consequently, ideologies are not sharply drawn between parties, and voters frequently cross party lines. As a result, the governments since independence have been formed by different, highly fluid coalitions. Votes of no confidence are common, and debate is often vigorous.

The country is divided into 19 provinces plus the National Capital District (NCD-Port Moresby). A constitutional amendment in 1995 significantly changed the administration of the provinces. It both centralized the political control of the provinces-by appointing as governors the regional members of the national parliament and providing most provincial funding through the national government-while decentralizing to the provinces the responsibility of providing most government services for the people, such as health and education. Implementing the new system has proven to be more difficult than originally envisioned, and many coordination problems are still being worked out.

Arts, Science, and Education

There is a system of state and private schools in Papua New Guinea which provides primary through tertiary education. However, education is neither compulsory nor free, and overall school facilities are not sufficient to meet the rapidly growing numbers of children who require education. Failure to provide education appropriate to fill the demand for skilled workers has created large groups of early school leavers among the PNG population who do not have sufficient skills to find jobs, but who have just enough education to make them dissatisfied with village life. Expatriates in Papua New Guinea and well-to-do Papua New Guineans either enroll their children in private institutions or send them abroad for schooling.

Approximately 72% of Papua New Guineans are literate. English is introduced into the school curriculum no later than second grade, and all those who complete the sixth grade or better can speak and read English. Reforms introduced in primary education in 1994 divide early education into elementary, grades prep through two, and primary, which carries the student through grade eight. Secondary schools are divided into lower secondary, grades nine through ten, and upper secondary, grades eleven through twelve. National examinations are given at grade six and grade ten. Students who cannot pass those exams, or whose parents cannot afford to pay for continued schooling, must leave school. As of 1996, a little over 90% of school age children started primary school. However, only 33% of those could expect to go on to lower secondary, and only 10% of those in lower secondary, will be able to complete 12th grade. The school reforms, which aim for universal primary education by 2004, hope to enable at least 50% of all primary school graduates to go on to lower secondary. However, shortcomings in budgets and administration in recent years make it unlikely that the target will be met by that date.

A correspondence system, known as the College of Distance Education (CODE) covers grades 7 through 12 and is available to children who cannot find places in the high schools. As of 1996, about half the number of those enrolled in high schools were enrolled in CODE courses. There are also 14 centers for the disabled throughout PNG, which are operated by Non-Government Organizations with some support from the Government of Papua New Guinea.

There are over fifty tertiary institutions, the most important of which are the University of Papua New Guinea at Port Moresby (liberal arts, law, medicine, and business administration), the Papua New Guinea Institute of Technology at Lae, and the University of Papua New Guinea at Goroka (teacher training and business education).

Private international schools operated under the aegis of the International Education Agency (IEA) and staffed primarily by expatriate teaching staff, are found in the main population centers. Of these there are about 22 primary schools and eight high schools in the country.

Papua New Guineans express their rich cultural heritage in wood carvings, pottery, bark painting, dancing, costuming, and personal ornamentation. Oral tradition and legends, which are often surprisingly similar despite the diversity of peoples and languages, have also played an important role in the culture. They form the basis of traditional village social structure and are reenacted in song and dance. They are also depicted in carvings and bark paintings that are closely associated with clan customs and ceremonies. Magic and ancestor worship also play an integral part in everyday village life. The PNG Government promotes indigenous art and is actively sponsoring a revival of older forms of cultural expression. Artists now also work in such modern mediums as textiles and lithographs.

Port Moresby's excellent National Museum and Art Gallery has a large permanent collection of traditional arts. The National Library also has an extensive collection of books and video tapes on aspects of life in Papua New Guinea, both traditional and modern, which Embassy personnel can borrow. The National Research Institute has a variety of publications, tapes, and records of traditional songs, stories, and legends. Other groups, including the National Theatre company, Raun Raun Travelling Theatre, and National Arts School, present cultural events periodically.

Several art shops in Port Moresby sell artifacts collected from all over the country. Hundreds of dancers from various villages, wearing elaborate headdresses and body decorations, perform annually at the world famous Highlands Sing Sing, held alternately in Mount Hagen and Goroka. The annual Hiri festival is held in Port Moresby each September with a week of traditional dancing, singing, sailing, and canoe racing. The latter commemorates old trading voyages that set out from the region when the southeast trade winds were blowing and returned with the northwesterly monsoons.

Commerce and Industry

The World Bank classifies Papua New Guinea as a middle-income country based on its estimated 1995 per capita GNP of __BODY__,160. However, although capital intensive exploitation of natural resources (copper, gold, oil, timber), along with tree crops (coffee, copra, palm oil, cocoa), generates significant export revenues, at least 80% of the population reside in isolated villages, engaged in subsistence agriculture and smallholder cash-crop production. Non-export private-sector activity is mainly distributive rather than productive. Thus, the living standards and standard social indicators (such as literacy, infant and maternal mortality, and life expectancy) of the vast majority of the people are akin to those in low-income developing nations. The minimum weekly wage in 1998 was slightly less than $11.00.

Traditional villages are still home for most of the population, but education and exposure to Western culture are leading more young people to leave the village to look for work in towns. Unfortunately, economic growth in the non-mining sector has not kept pace with population growth over the past decade. The relatively small urban-based manufacturing and service sectors are unable to provide jobs for the increasing numbers of youths who leave their villages. Consequently, centers such as Port Moresby, Lae and Mount Hagen have large, growing, squatter settlements.

In an effort to slow migration and bring villagers into the money economy, the Government encourages agricultural development. Agricultural extension services and price-support programs have encouraged the planting of export crops. In addition, the Government has supported projects including large sugar, oil palm, and rubber plantations, which are now slowly being privatized. Development of locally-owned commercial fishing and sustainable forestry ventures is also a goal.

Economic growth continues to be hampered by the geography of the country. The extremely rugged terrain inhibits road construction; and the capital and most populous city, Port Moresby, is accessible only by sea or air. In the center of the country, the Highlands Highway links the port of Lae to major towns and mining and petroleum sites in the Highlands. Additional road development has been slow since independence and maintenance of existing roads has been poor, though improving this is a major goal of the Government's development program. Some third-tier airlines and helicopter companies complement the national airline, Air Niugini, in providing cargo and passenger service to over 400 airports and airstrips throughout the country. Coastal and inter-island shipping is expensive and often not equipped to carry passengers.

Papua New Guinea is heavily dependent on imports for manufactured goods and exports raw materials and agricultural products. In 1997 Papua New Guinea imported __BODY__.5 billion in machinery, transportation equipment and other manufactured goods, rice and processed foods, fuels and chemicals. Its principal suppliers are Australia, Japan, the United Kingdom, New Zealand and Malaysia. During the same year, it exported $2.2 billion in gold, copper ore, oil, timber, palm oil, coffee, and cocoa. Its major markets are Australia, Japan, Germany, the United Kingdom, South Korea and China. U.S. trade with Papua New Guinea is limited. In 1997 U.S. goods, dominated by machinery and aircraft, accounted for about 8 percent of PNG's total imports. During the same year, the United States purchased about 3 percent of PNG's total exports, primarily oil, coffee and cocoa.

Historically, the mining and petroleum sector has contributed 25% of PNG's GDP and between 65 to 80% of export earnings. While production from older major ventures, including the Ok Tedi Copper Mine, the Porgera Gold Mine and the Kutubu oil fields, has begun to decline, new projects are under development or active exploration. The Lihir Gold Mine, one of the largest gold mines outside South Africa, commenced production in 1994 in New Ireland Province. A new oil field was also opened at Gobe in the Gulf and Southern Highlands Provinces in 1998.

U.S. companies have been active in the development of PNG's mining and petroleum sector. Chevron owns part of the Kutubu and Gobe Joint Ventures and operates those fields. The company also is spearheading a major natural gas development project. Battle Mountain Gold owns an interest in the Lihir Gold Mine. Other American companies are exploring for oil, gas, and minerals in PNG. U.S. firms also supply services and supplies to the mining and petroleum industries. U.S. financial institutions have been involved in financing for most major resource development projects in PNG. The Bank of Hawaii has been operating in PNG since 1997.

Transportation

Automobiles

Port Moresby consists of several suburbs spread over a large area. This, combined with inadequate public transportation, makes a privately-owned vehicle a necessity. Vehicles can be imported, but all common Japanese models, Australian Ford, and Hyundai are sold and serviced in Port Moresby.

Traffic moves on the left, and right-hand drive cars are required by law. The 3-year Papua New Guinea driver's license is obtained by presenting a valid U.S. driver's license. Third-party liability insurance is mandatory. It currently costs K120.00 ($56.00) per year. Two insurance agencies in Port Moresby provide coverage at K1,050.00 ($494.00) per year plus 3% sales tax. Letters from former insurers indicating no insurance claims over the past 5 years can sharply reduce insurance fees.

Gasoline currently costs approximately __BODY__.64 per gallon. Vehicle repairs and service are expensive, often slow, and the quality of work is uneven. All sales outlets service the brands they sell, but repairs on cars not sold in Port Moresby can be hard to obtain. Considerable delay and expense can be incurred if spare parts must be imported.

Four-wheel drive vehicles are not necessary for driving in Port Moresby. Bicycles are not practical due to the extremely hilly terrain and narrow roads.

Local

Use of a private car is essential in Port Moresby. No adequate, reliable public transportation system exists. Public Motor Vehicles (PMVs-small buses or 15-passenger vans) offer unscheduled daytime service for 50 toea ($.24) to most parts of the city, but they are often unreliable and unsafe. Cars are available for hire, but cost more than they do in the U.S. Taxis are unsecure and not recommended.

Except for the Highland's Highway beginning in Lae, and roads around most major towns, no extensive road system exists in the country. Road networks between Port Moresby and the interior have been prevented so far by barriers of mountains, swamps and jungles. The longest road from Port Moresby extends just over 200 miles to the northwest. Another road extends 200 miles east, and a third stretches 45 miles north into the mountains past Sogeri. None of the roads reaches a town of over 1,000 inhabitants and highway banditry is common. Paved roads stop approximately 20 miles from city limits.

Papua New Guinea has no rail network. Intercoastal shipping exists but is not designed for passenger travel.

Regional

Most people travel between the main population centers by air. The national airline, Air Niugini, provides daily service to most major towns. Planes are usually full, even though domestic and international air fares are among the highest in the world. Third-level air carriers fly to more isolated towns and villages that have grass airstrips.

Air Niugini and Qantas offer several flights a week to Australia. Currently two flights a week also are available to Manila, Singapore and Honiara.

Communications

Telephone, Fax and Internet

The telephone system in Papua New Guinea is relatively efficient. Australia and most main areas of PNG can be dialed directly.

Mail

Local and international mail service is reliable. Within country, mail is delivered only to a post office box or counter, not to individual companies or residences. Mailing a letter within country costs K.25 ($.12) for up to 50 grams. Airmail letters to the U.S. cost K1.00] ($.47) per 20 gram. Airmail parcel rate to the U.S. is K30.50 ($14.341 per kilogram.

Radio and TV

Radio is the most accessible communications medium in PNG where rugged terrain prevents newspapers from reaching the more remote communities and television is beyond the reach of the vast majority of citizens. Most radio stations broadcast news several times a day and most programs are in English.

There are three radio broadcasters in Papua New Guinea: the National Broadcasting Company (NBC), NauFM and Radio Kalang. NBC manages the majority of the radio broadcasting operations in the country. It operates a national noncommercial AM network that, during the evening, also broadcasts in short-wave in local languages from 19 provincial stations located throughout the country. NauFM operates two stations. It broadcasts in English featuring popular music and is targeted at a young, professional audience. As Yumi FM, it also broadcasts in Tok Pisin, a service that targets an older and more traditional audience. Radio Kalang is a commercial FM station which offers music, news and commentary.

Radio Australia, BBC, and VOA signals can be picked up on a short-wave radio. Reception is usually good with an outdoor antenna. Short-wave sets purchased locally cost about 25% more than comparable sets sold in the U.S. The local cable company also makes four Australian radio stations available to cable TV subscribers for a regular monthly charge.

The national TV station, EM-TV, broadcasts news, old American and Australian programs and movies, as well as some local programming. It receives news via satellite from its parent network in Australia. Satellite TV can be rented at a fee of K56 ($25.00) per month. It currently offers 14 channels, including CNNI, Cinemax, ESPN, the Discovery Channel, four Australian channels, and a local movie channel.

Newspapers, Magazines, and Technical Journals

Two English-language newspapers, the Post-Courier and The National, are published 5 days a week in Papua New Guinea. A few magazines, technical journals, and various weeklies are also published, including the Pidgin language Wantok and the English-language The Independent. Coverage is usually unbiased and accurate, although the international news is not extensive.

Australian newspapers and magazines, regionally oriented journals, and a few general interest American magazines are available at news stands. Paperback books are also available, but the selection is poor and prices are high.

The National Library in Waigani has a good collection of nonfiction, periodicals, and children's books. It also has research facilities and a lending service of some 6,000 films and 400 video cassettes, including documentaries about Papua New Guinea. The library at the University of Papua New Guinea has an extensive but outdated selection of books and audio materials. It, too, is open to the public.

Health and Medicine

Medical Facilities

Port Moresby General Hospital can handle most routine cases, however, service and hygiene are inadequate by U.S. standards. The hospital is chronically short on staff and overcrowded, while most of the employees are undertrained or untrained. Thus, personnel are advised to use the private medical clinics in Port Moresby that are staffed by Western-trained doctors. Local pharmacies stock a full range of medicines to meet most medical requirements. Some lab tests must be performed in Australia, causing delays which can be lengthy.

Specialized surgery and treatment for more unusual or difficult medical problems are not available in port Moresby. Cases requiring special treatment are normally evacuated to Cairns, Brisbane or Sydney, Australia. Psychiatric treatment is not available in Port Moresby.

Competent, private dentists practice in Port Moresby. General treatment is available, but costs are higher than in the U.S.

Community Health

Tap water should not be considered safe for drinking in Papua New Guinea. Garbage is collected at residences twice a week by the City Council Works Department. Sewage disposal facilities are adequate, though a fair amount is dumped into the Coral Sea 3 miles offshore from Port Moresby, so the area is not safe fox swimming. Local food container and beverage sterilization facilities are considered to be adequate. Milk is safe. Meat, fish and poultry do not require special handling, but should be thoroughly cooked. Local seafood should never be eaten raw. Local vegetables and fruits should be well scrubbed and soaked in a Clorox solution.

Preventive Measures

Many of the communicable diseases found in Papua New Guinea also occur in the United States, however, some conditions are found more frequently in PNG. Intestinal problems occur, but dysentery is not common. Chloroquine-resistant malaria is endemic at lower elevations in all areas outside Port Moresby. Port Moresby has a relatively low incidence of malaria, however cases do occur, and precautions such as antimalarial tablets (Mefloquin is most commonly used) should be taken beginning 2 weeks before coming to PNG, taken during the stay in country and for 6 weeks after leaving. Because of the nocturnal feeding habits of the Anopheles mosquito, malaria transmission occurs primarily between dusk and dawn. Personal protection measures are very important. Use of a repellent cream or spray when going out in the evenings is recommended, especially during the rainy season. Visitors should get current information from traveling into remote areas of PNG.

As in all tropical climates, sunburn, prickly heat, and various fungal infections are easy to contract. All cuts and scratches should be treated immediately with a good antiseptic to prevent infection. Snake bites can be a danger, so grass surrounding residences must be cut regularly to discourage their presence. Care should be taken when visiting uncultivated areas. Large spiders are seen occasionally, but are seldom dangerous.

For 8-9 months of the year, the climate in Port Moresby is warm and dry with some dirt and dust in the air. During the remaining 3-4 months of the year, it is hot, humid and rainy. Flu and colds can occur during the sudden change from dry to wet season and vice versa. Persons with a history of sinus allergies or asthma may find their symptoms exacerbated by the environment. Mold and mildew are a problem here, though somewhat less than in other equatorial posts due to the relatively dry weather. Air conditioned storage is recommended.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

Travel to Papua New Guinea is by air. The most direct route from the United States is via Sydney, Australia. United Airlines is the only American carrier which flies to Australia. Transportation between Sydney and Port Moresby is available from Qantas four days a week and between Cairns and Port Moresby seven days a week. Air West also provides regular service from Cairns. In order to make these connections it is necessary to overnight in Australia. Connections to Port Moresby are also available twice a week by Air Niugini from Manila and Singapore.

Customs clearance usually requires a minimum of five working days. Unaccompanied baggage takes about two to three weeks to reach Port Moresby by air from the United States. Surface shipments average 4 months in transit. Most surface shipments are trans-shipped at either Hong Kong, Singapore or Sydney. Customs clearance for household effects usually requires a minimum of five working days.

A valid passport, onward/return ticket, and proof of sufficient funds for the intended visit are required. Tourist visas are required for stays up to 60 days. (Visas are issued upon arrival at Jacksons International Airport in Port Moresby). Business visas require passport validity of at least one year from the date the visa is issued, two application forms, two photos, a company letter, biographical data, a recent annual report of the parent company and a fee for multiple entries. An AIDS test is required for work and residency permits (U.S. test accepted).

American citizens who remain in Papua New Guinea beyond the period authorized by immigration authorities may face fines and penalties. Papua New Guinea collects a departure tax. The departure tax is normally incorporated into airline fares at the time of ticket issuance.

For more information about entry and exit requirements, travelers may contact the Embassy of Papua New Guinea, 1615 New Hampshire Ave., NW, Suite 300, Washington DC 20009, Tel. 202-745-3680, or visit the Embassy's website at www.pngembassy.org.

Travelers may also wish to obtain entry permission from the Government of Australia for transit or other purposes (see section on Medical Facilities) before traveling to Papua New Guinea. American citizens no longer need a visa to travel to Australia as tourists but must obtain an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA) through their travel agent. For further information about Australian visas or the ETA, contact the Embassy of Australia in Washington, D.C., at 1-800-242-2878 or at the Embassy of Australia's website at http://www.austemb.org.

U.S. citizens are encouraged to carry a copy of their U.S. passports with them at all times, so that, if questioned by local officials, proof of identity and U.S. citizenship are readily available.

U.S. citizens are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Port Moresby and obtain updated information on travel and security within Papua New Guinea. The U.S. Embassy is located at Douglas Street, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. This address should be used for courier service deliveries. The Embassy is located adjacent to the Bank of Papua New Guinea. The mailing address is P.O. Box 1492, Port Moresby, N.C.D. 121, Papua New Guinea. The U.S. Embassy's telephone number is (675) 321-1455; fax (675) 321-1593. Americans may submit consular inquiries via e-mail to: consularportmoresby@state.gov.

Pets

All pets, except those originating in Australia or New Zealand, are prohibited entry into Papua New Guinea unless they have been quarantined for six months in either Australia or New Zealand. Pets originating in New Guinea, however, can be acquired in Port Moresby.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Papua New Guinean and American currency may be exchanged freely through the banks. The Papua New Guinea kina and toea (100 toea = 1 kina) are the only legal currency in the country. No restrictions are placed on the amount of currency a person can bring into Papua New Guinea. Travelers may not export more than K5,000 kina without special permission.

The exchange rate floats freely. As of December 1999, the rate was US__BODY__ = K2.85.

Jackson's International Airport at Port Moresby has banking and exchange facilities. Persons not traveling on a diplomatic passport are required to pay a departure tax of K30.00 ($14.00). Most hotels, restaurants and shops accept major U.S. credit cards. Papua New Guinea uses the metric system.

Disaster Preparedness

Papua New Guinea is located in an area of high seismic activity. Although the probability of a major earthquake occurring during an individual trip is remote, earthquakes can and will continue to happen. In addition, there are two active volcanoes near the town of Rabaul on New Britain. General information regarding disaster preparedness is available via the Internet from the U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) home page at http://www.fema.gov.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan.1… New Year's Day

Mar/Apr. … Good Friday^*

Mar/Apr. … Easter Saturday^*

Mar/Apr. … Easter^*

Mar/Apr. … Easter Monday^*

June … Queen's Birthday Celebrated^*

July 23 … Remembrance Day (ANZAC)

Sept. 16… PNG Independence Day

Sept. 21… St. Michael's Day

Dec. 25 … Christmas Day

Dec. 26 … Boxing Day

^*variable

SPECIAL INFORMATION

The Department of State has issued the following public announcement concerning safety in Papua New Guinea:

Although reliable statistics are difficult or impossible to obtain, violent crime is a serious threat in many areas of Papua New Guinea (PNG). The visitor to PNG can minimize the potential to become a victim of crime by taking appropriate precautions, for example, by taking part in organized tours run by reliable and experienced operators. This primer provides basic guidance for those who will be visiting PNG for a short period. Persons who plan to stay in PNG for more than a week or two should get in touch with the Embassy or long-time residents for additional guidance.

There are several universal ways to stay out of trouble: do not increase your vulnerability by drinking heavily or staying out after midnight; do not patronize disreputable bars; do not proposition women; do not visit squatter settlements or other economically distressed areas; do not display money or valuables; and do not verbally abuse, cheat or tempt PNG citizens. Wear modest clothes, jewelry and watches so as not to draw attention to yourself. Limit your conversations with members of the opposite sex to chose persons you know or have business with.

Persons arriving at the Port Moresby Jackson's International Airport should arrange, if possible, to be met, particularly if their flight arrives at night. If no one meets you, it is possible to take a courtesy bus to the Gateway, Islander Travelodge or Port Moresby Travelodge Hotels and contact your sponsor from there. The terminal itself is not a danger zone, but thefts and assaults have occurred in the terminal parking lot. If picking up a rental vehicle, obtain a street map and review it in the office before leaving. Do not travel by car outside Port Moresby at night, even on major highways. If you encounter a roadblock which does not appear to be manned by uniformed police, or notice a disturbance on the road ahead, turn around immediately, if possible, and use an alternative route. Police vehicles are sky-blue with red insignia.

Do not leave cash or high-value belongings in hotel rooms. Do not leave room keys on hotel counters when going out; drop them in the slot, if provided, or hand them to a clerk. Lock sliding glass doors or windows when going out.

Up-scale restaurants and stores usually have their own security guards. It is still advisable, however, to remain watchful when entering or leaving. Ask the staff to assign someone to escort you to your car if you feel uncomfortable (particularly at night). Avoid carrying a purse or briefcase in public. Do not leave anything of even minor value in sight within a parked car.

Sexual assaults are primarily crimes of opportunity. PNG women rarely wear shorts, pants or mini-skirts; therefore, female visitors are advised not to wear revealing clothing in public such as swimsuits, sundresses, or similar apparel

Most expatriates avoid using public motor vehicles (PMVs) or taxis to get around, relying instead on their sponsor or a rental vehicle for transport. Visitors should inquire of colleagues or hotel employees before undertaking trips to unfamiliar neighborhoods.

Carjackings, rock-throwing and attempts to stop cars occur occasionally. Keep an eye on persons in the vicinity of your vehicle at all times, particularly when stopped at intersections or crosswalks.

Most hotels and private residences in Port Moresby have secure parking lots, i.e., fenced areas entered through gates opened by remote control or security guards. Try to avoid parking outside secure areas at night.

Individual travelers to the PNG highlands need to exercise substantially greater caution than those taking part in organized tours. The Highlands provinces--Enga, Chimbu, and Eastern, Southern and Western Highlands--can be volatile. Political disputes, inter-clan fights and sudden altercations (for example, at sporting events) occur frequently. Criminals have been known to set up roadblocks on segments of the Highlands highway, which runs from Lae to Mt. Hagen, Mendi and Tari. Visitors should inquire locally concerning security before driving between towns. An extensive secondary airline network provides frequent service within the Highlands.

Due to the risk of roadblocks, avoid traveling outside of Port Moresby, even on paved highways, at night.

Driving carefully is important because many PNG citizens respond emotionally and violently to a serious incident or an injury involving relatives or fellow villagers. Such reactions can endanger the life of the person perceived to have inflicted the loss, whether or not that person would be found legally responsible by a court. Drive defensively at all times, but particularly in the afternoons and evenings of "pay Fridays," when the likelihood of encountering inebriated drivers or pedestrians is greatest. Killing a dog or pig is almost certain to trigger a demand for monetary compensation, so exercise caution when driving through rural areas. Finally, it is unwise to provoke PNG drivers by cutting them off or gesturing rudely.

Short-term visitors who take the precautions outlined above are likely to find their stay in Papua New Guinea interesting, enjoyable and rewarding. The vast majority of PNG citizens are friendly, live peacefully and are eager to learn about life in other countries. Attention to personal security will enhance your confidence in undertaking personal and professional contacts, leading in turn, to a deeper understanding of Papua New Guinea and its people. Unfortunately, crime is a serious problem in Papua New Guinea, perhaps even more for Papua New Guineans than for visitors. The US Embassy emphasizes that there is no way to guarantee personal safety during a visit to PNG, only to minimize the chances of becoming a victim.

RECOMMENDED READING

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published on this country.

Books

Beehler, Bruce M. A Naturalist in New Guinea. University of Texas Press: Austin, 1991.

Connolly, Bob and Robin Anderson. First Contact. Viking Penguin: New York, 1987.

Crocombe, Ron, Ed. Land Tenure in the Pacific. 3'd Ed. University of the South Pacific: Suva, 1987

Dorney, Sean. Papua New Guinea.Random House Australia: Sydney, 1991.

Dorney, Sean. The Sandline Affair.ABC Books: Sydney, 1998.

Dutton, Geoffrey. Queen Emma of the South Pacific. St. Martins Press: New York, 1977.

Howlett, Diana R. Papua New Guinea: Geography and Change. Thomas Nelson: Melbourne, 1973.

Kiki, Albert Maori. Ten Thousand Years in a Lifetime. Cheshire Paperback: Melbourne, 1970

Lindstrom, Lamont and Geoffrey M. White. Island Encounters. Smithsonian Institution Press: Washington, 1990.

Matane, Paulias. My Childhood in New Guinea. Oxford University Press: London, 1972.

Mead, Margaret. Growing Up in New Guinea. Morrow: New York, 1976.

Somare, Michael. Sana, An Autobiography. Niugini Press Pty. Ltd: Port Moresby, 1975.

Thompson, Herb and Scott MacWilliam. The Political Economy of Papua New Guinea. Journal of Contemporary Asia: Manila, 1992.

Tree, Isabella. Island in the Clouds. Lonely Planet Publications: Hawthorn, Australia, 1996.

Waiko, John Dademo. A Short History of Papua New Guinea. Oxford University Press Australia: Melbourne, 1998.

Wheeler, Tony and Jon Murray. Papua New Guinea: A Travel Survival Kit. 5′ Ed. Lonely Planet Publications: Hawthorn, Australia, 1993.

Video Tapes

Anderson, Robin and Bob Connolly. First Contact. Pacific Video Casette Series No. 1. Institute of Papua New Guinea Studies: Port Moresby

Anderson, Robin and Bob Connolly. Joe Leahy's Neighbours. Pacific Video Cassette Series No. 19. Institute of Papua New Guinea Studies: Port Moresby.

Anderson, Robin and Bob Connolly. Black Harvest. Pacific Video Cassette Series No. 25. Institute of Papua New Guinea Studies: Port Moresby.