MOLDOVA

EDITOR'S NOTE

This chapter was adapted from the Department of State Post Report 2000 for Moldova. Supplemental material has been added to increase coverage of minor cities, facts have been updated, and some material has been condensed. Readers are encouraged to visit the Department of State's web site at http://travel.state.gov/ for the most recent information available on travel to this country.

INTRODUCTION

Moldova is a picturesque country, all rolling green hills, whitewashed villages, placid lakes, and sunflower fields-with an old world charm that is hard to manufacture. It also has some of the best vineyards in Europe. It is densely populated, with numerous ethnic groups represented, but the majority are ethnic Romanians. The economy is heavily dependent on labor-intensive agriculture, and Moldova must import virtually 100% of its primary energy. Chisinau is a moderatesized city that has preserved much of its pre-Soviet character, with many low-rise, older structures and tree-shaded streets that have survived in the central city.

With its cultural ties to Russia, Romania, and Turkey, Moldova is something of an enigma. It has risen from the ruins of Soviet socialism to become a democratic republic split in two, one area controlled by the government and the other by separatist rebels loyal to Mother Russia. Unification with Romania, its closest neighbor, is an on again/off again issue, and yet it has more in common with other former Soviet countries. The official language, Moldovan, is phonetically identical to Romanian, but school and university classes are all taught in Russian. Everything in Moldova has an equal and opposite reaction.

Originally Moldova was part of the greater region of Moldavia. It lies directly between Russia and Romania and has always been the focal point for border disputes and expansionist policies. Prior to its tenuous unification, it had been overrun, split up, reunited, conquered, annexed, renamed, and taken back again many times over. It has been a long and bloody journey from the principality of Moldavia to the republic of Moldova, and it seems fitting that the flag includes a band of red signifying the blood spilled in defending the country.

The region was made a focal point for the diaspora of Magyars, Slavs, and Bulgarians spreading across Eastern Europe. By the beginning of the Middle Ages, Moldavia (as part of Romania) was already a potpourri of different races and cultures.

In the mid-14th century, Moldavia was subsumed under the Ottoman empire, and it remained under Turkish suzerainty until 1711. In 1812 Turkey and Russia signed the Bucharest Treaty, which gave the eastern half of Moldavia to the Russians (renamed Bessarabia) and the rest of Moldavia and Wallachia to Romania.

Bessarabia remained under Russian control until the 1918 Bolshevik Revolution, when it reunited with Romania as a protective measure. In 1939 the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact handed Bessarabia back to the U.S.S.R., which it renamed the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (M.S.S.R.). The area was reoccupied by Romanian forces between 1941 and 1944, when the Soviet authorities once again took control.

With the collapse of Communism in the mid-1980s and Gorbachev's policies of glasnost and perestroika, reform followed, and finally, in 1991, Moldova declared its full independence.

Unity and peaceful coexistence seem tenuous, as republicans struggle to keep all the pieces together and smooth over the contradictions of being part Romanian, part Russian, and wholly Moldovan.

MAJOR CITY

Chisinau

Chisinau, Moldova's capital, is located almost in the center of the country on the river Bik. The first written mention of Chisinau dates to the 14th century when the region was under Turkish domination. During WWII, extensive portions of Chisinau were destroyed. The post-war reconstruction includes many typical examples of Soviet architecture, but the older sections of town retain much of their charm. Despite the size of the city (approximately 800,000 people), Chisinau still has a small town feeling. There are numerous pastel-colored single-and two-story houses in the city proper, built by traders and merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries. With large trees lining almost all of the streets in the city center, Chisinau is one of the greenest cities on earth from April to October.

Utilities

Electricity in Moldova is 220v, 50 cycle, AC. Items which depend on a stable supply of cycles (e.g., clock radios, answering machines with "date/time stamp" feature) to function correctly are not recommended: local 50 cycle current causes them to lose time every day. Bring 220v voltage stabilizers or surge protectors to protect sensitive, high fidelity, computers or similar equipment. A 110v computer with a voltage stabilizer or UPS will work through a transformer. Bring a good quality short wave radio that can run off 220v electricity as well as batteries.

Bring a supply of European electrical adapters and wall plugs.

Food

There are two Western-quality supermarkets in Chisinau: Green Hills and Fidesco. These supermarkets have a good Western-made selection of goods, sanitary refrigerated meats, packed fruits and vegetables and pasteurized dairy products.

In spring and summer, fruits and vegetables are abundant in this agricultural country. Every visitor to Chisinau should experience the Central Market-it is the largest market in town for fresh meats, fruits, vegetables and dairy products. There are many smaller neighborhood markets. Most Moldovans have kitchen gardens, even in Chisinau. In season, you will learn what "vine-ripened" and "fresh-picked" really mean. During summer, people eat lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, and Moldovans spend considerable time canning and preserving for winter months. Unfortunately, no one has found a way to preserve lettuce, which appears in the open markets briefly in early May. Occasionally, however, the supermarket Green Hills has lettuce in the winter. Beef, chicken and pork are available year round. The latter two meats are of excellent quality: beef usually requires a longer cooking time to become tender.

Some food products that are not usually available in Moldova are: peanut butter, brown sugar, dry yeast, baking powder, good quality powder sugar, vanilla extract, unsweetened cocoa, and unsweetened baking chocolate.

Chisinau's restaurants, small and large, are still short of international standards, but the scene is improving. One can have a good meal at very reasonable prices. Some restaurants accept credit cards but prefer to receive cash. Tips are generally not included in the bill, except for large parties. The standard tip is 10% or less. Reservations are recommended. Moldovan cooking is an interesting combination of Balkan, Romanian, Russian and Ukranian influences. Mamaliga (cornmeal, similar to polenta), feta cheese, and the abundant seasonal fruits and vegetables are staple items. The cuisine is not spicy but uses liberal amounts of onions, peppers, and garlic. Upscale restaurants serve a more international Eastern European cuisine, rather than true Moldovan cooking. There are also Indian, Chinese, Turkish, Georgian, and even two Moldovan-Mexican restaurants.

In summertime there is a wonderful explosion of sidewalk cafes with colorful Sprite and Coca-Cola umbrellas.

McDonald's has one downtown and one drive-thru restaurant, with more planned.

Clothing

Moldovans are quite fashion conscious, and enjoy getting dressed up for social events, although there are few true "black tie" events in Chisinau. For most formal receptions, a dark suit is the norm for men, and a long or short dress for women. It is a good idea to bring a lot of warm winter clothes, as many public (and private) buildings are only minimally heated during the winter months. Long down or wool coats are a must, as are sturdy waterproof snow boots, since the streets are icy and muddy throughout the winter. Also plan to bring lots of warm socks and gloves or mittens. Locally made fur hats are both fashionable and practical. Clothes are available in Chisinau although they are labeled in European sizes. Business clothes are of poor quality or are very expensive.

Supplies and Services

Although Chisinau shops carry an ever-greater variety of items, do not rely solely on the local economy since supplies are erratic and the price/quality ratio is higher than in the U.S. The following items are available, although supply, quality and price fluctuate wildly: toiletries, cosmetics, medicines, first-aid items, tobacco products, laundry detergent and other basic home, recreational and entertainment supplies. A good basic rule is to decide how devoted you are to a specific brand or kind of product. The vast majority of generic items is available.

Generally, basic supplies and services are expensive and irregularly available. Most repairs are hindered by a lack of spare parts. Barbershops are, in most cases, satisfactory. Beauty salons offer a range of services from pedicures and manicures to hair and eyelash coloring. The variety of salon-quality products is limited. Therefore, if you use a specific brand of hair coloring and/or treatment products, you should purchase them where available. Good quality dry cleaning is available.

Domestic Help

Good, reliable help is available, and English-speakers are becoming easier to find.

Host country laws concerning payment and legal employment of local help are still vague and changing.

Religious Activities

Although most residents of Moldova are at least nominally Orthodox, Protestant churches have increased their activities in recent years with the increased religious freedom. Baptists, Seventh-day Adventists, the Church of Latter Day Saints, and other denominations hold services in churches around Chisinau and in many other areas. At present, there are no American congregations, nor are services conducted in English, al-though there are American Missionaries working with some of the Protestant churches. The Salvation Army has also begun activities in Chisinau. There is a small Roman Catholic community, with one Catholic Church in Chisinau. It holds services in Romanian, Russian, Polish, and German (sometimes during the same mass). There is one working synagogue in Chisinau for the Jewish community.

Education

QSI International School of Chisinau is an affiliate of Quality Schools International. All classes are taught in English and the school uses an American curriculum. Some expatriate families follow homestudy courses with their children. Enrollment (pre-K-8, at the QSI for the 1999-2000 school year was 22 students.

There are several, excellent private pre-K and grammar schools with curriculums taught either in Romanian or Russian. Both the Romanian and Russian curriculums emphasize foreign language training, English being one of the most widely taught languages. A growing number of expatriate children are enrolled in local pre-K and kindergarten programs (kindergarten typically is extended through age six, with children starting grammar school at age seven). Presently, there are no high-school age, expatriate dependents attending school in Chisinau.

University-level education in Moldova normally requires mastery of Russian or Romanian as a basic prerequisite.

Entertainment

Like any other city, Chisinau has a charm and warmth all its own. Visitors can easily find some interesting activities in Chisinau. In the fall and winter the local opera and concert circuit comes alive. The quality of the performances is excellent. Chisinau's numerous music schools support and promote classical music. Concerts are held at the Organ Hall, the National Palace, the Philharmonic Hall, and the Theater of Opera and Ballet.

There are two local movie theaters that meet Western standards: comfortable seating, surround sound, and large screens. The Patria theater screens American movies dubbed over in Russian. The Odeon Theater screens American movies in English with Romanian subtitles. In addition there is a local club that shows films in English throughout the week.

The National Library of the Republic of Moldova carries primarily Russian and Romanian books but has a small selection of English-and other foreign-language books. There are several museums in town, including the Museum of Natural History and Ethnography, the National History Museum, and the Pushkin Museum. (The famous Russian poet lived in Moldova 1820-23.)

There are a new amusement park and a variety of circus shows in Chisinau. Chisinau has a city zoo. A new, outdoor swimming pool complex opened in June 1999. In the cold winter months the Fitness Club offers a first-class sauna, with dunking pool, and a trained massage therapist.

Social Activities

The International Women's Club of Moldova sponsors activities and interest groups for its members. The Moldova-International Charity Association formed by expatriates, raises funds for Moldovan children. These two organizations sponsor several annual events that expatriates look forward to and attend: The October Charity Ball, the December Christmas Bazaar, and the March St. Patrick's Day Auction. Moldovans are generally curious to see how Americans live, and will respond to social invitations. They are generous hosts and appreciative guests, as Moldovans are willing to experiment with most foods. The music culture is very deep in Moldova and many people include the performance of music in an evening of dinner with guests.

OTHER CITIES

The city of BELTSY is located in north central Moldova. Beltsy is the home of several major industries, among them wine making, sugar refining, and tobacco processing. Other industries in the city produce fur coats, machinery, and furniture. Beltsy has a population of approximately 162,000.

BENDERY is one of Moldova's oldest cities. Founded around the 2nd century B.C., the city is situated southeast of Kishinev on the Dniester River. Throughout history, Bendery has been attacked and occupied by various foreign powers. The city was totally destroyed during World War II, but has been completely rebuilt. Bendery is a manufacturing center for textiles, electrical equipment, and food stuffs. Silk manufactured in Bendery is among the finest in the world. A 17th century Turkish fortress still stands in Bendery and is a reminder of the city's ancient past. Bendery's population is roughly 132,000.

The city of TIRASPOL is located on the Dniester River just east of Bendery. Tiraspol was founded in 1795 and was incorporated into the Moldovian Soviet Socialist Republic in 1929. During World War II, the city was heavily damaged after a series of battles between the Soviet Union and Germany. The Soviets gained control of Tiraspol in 1944. Following the end of World War II, the city was rebuilt. Tiraspol is an industrial center noted for canning and wine making. Other industries in Tiraspol produce farm equipment, footwear, textiles, furniture, carpets, and electrical equipment. Tiraspol has a population of approximately 186,000.

COUNTRY PROFILE

Geography and Climate

Moldova encompasses what was until August 1991 the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic, and is located between Romania and Ukraine. Except for a small strip of land on the Danube River, the country is land-locked. Moldova is a relatively small country, about 300 km long and 100 km across, about the same size as Maryland. Its total land boundary is 1,389 km. Its total area is 33,700 square km. The land border with Romania is 939 km and with Ukraine 450 km. The area east of the Dniester (Nistru) river, along with the city of Bender west of the Dniester, is the breakaway and officially unrecognized Transnistrian Moldovan Republic, or Transnistria. Transnistria is not recognized by Moldova, the U.S., or by any other country. Tiraspol is the capital of Transnistria. Moldova's total population is 4.4 million, of whom 800,000 live in Chisinau. The majority of the population lives in the countryside in villages organized around former state farms.

Moldova's climate is mild in the winter and warm in the summer-approximately that of New York City. Winter temperatures are typically in the 20s (F) but occasionally fall below zero. Highs in the summer are typically in the 80s but can go as high as 100. There are four distinct seasons, with foliage on trees between April and October. The climate is semi-arid. The countryside is comprised mainly of gently rolling agricultural lands with a gradual slope south toward the Black Sea. Seventy percent of the soil is composed of the famous, fertile "Black Earth" (chernozim) in this region. Because of the clearing of land for agricultural cultivation-especially in the Soviet era for grape production-there are few forests or woodlands. There has been soil erosion due to farming methods. The effect in the cities is that occasional dust can blow up from the streets in gusts. Humidity in the summer can be high but mildew and insects are not significant factors. Moldova is sparse in natural mineral resources, with some lignite, phosphorites, and gypsum. Moldova has suffered with other countries in the region from serious environmental damage from the heavy use of agricultural chemicals, including pesticides banned in the West such as DDT.

Substantial amounts of its soil and ground water are contaminated. Because of the extensive use of asbestos in construction, village and urban area soil may have, in some areas, high concentrations of asbestos mixed with the soil. The two principal rivers-the Prut on the west and Dniester in the east-are polluted. Untreated drinking water may have heavy metal contamination, as well as pollution from agricultural chemicals.

Population

Moldova has approximately 4,400,000 inhabitants. It is the most densely inhabited of the former Soviet Union Republics. About 65 percent of the population is Moldovan (ethnic Romanian), 14 percent is Ukrainian, and 13 percent Russian. There are also small communities of Gagauz (Christian Turks) and Bulgarians, mostly in the south. Moldova is a largely agricultural country, with more than a third of the population employed in the agricultural sector and agroprocessing, including the production of wine and other alcoholic beverages (brandy, champagne), vegetables and fruits, sugar, grain, sunflower seeds and oil, cattle and pigs. The population in the countryside is largely ethnic Moldovan, with a number of Ukrainian villages, especially in the north. In the main cities, ethnic Russians and Ukrainians predominate. The state language is Moldovan (Romanian), although Russian is extensively used. Most of the population of Moldova is at least nominally Orthodox, and Moldova has preserved many Orthodox traditions, including colorful Easter celebrations and church festivals.

Moldova has a proud tradition of hospitality, and is renowned for its wine, cognac and champagne. Many people, even in the city, make their own homemade wines and are eager to share them with visitors. Local cuisine shows the mixture of cultures, with traditional Romanian, Ukrainian, Russian and Jewish foods popular. National dishes include mamaliga (similar to polenta), placinta (a pastry filled with cheese, potatoes, or cabbage), and sarmale (stuffed cabbage); Russian-style borscht and caviar are also favorites.

Public Institutions

In June 1991, the Moldovan Supreme Soviet (parliament) announced the republic's sovereignty, and on 27 August 1991, declared the independence of the Republic of Moldova. After that, the forum revised the legislation and conducted multiparty elections. In the summer of 1994, the Republic of Moldova adopted a Constitution, dividing the power between an elected president, a prime minister and the parliament. In the summer of 1995 Moldova was admitted to several international organizations, including the Council of Europe-the first former Soviet republic to be admitted. Expanding its relations with the West, the Moldovan leadership, particularly the new Parliament, also preserves its ties with former Soviet Union republics. Parliamentary elections in March 1998 yielded 40 seats for communists (30% of the votes), while the centrist pro-presidential party received 24 seats (18% of the vote), and two center-right wing parties received 25 and 12 seats (26% of the vote). The center and center-right parties formed a coalition government, the first true coalition government in the former Soviet Union, with the communist bloc as the opposition. Two new governments have succeeded the center-right coalition. The transition was peaceful and democratic.

Arts, Science, and Education

Chisinau has an active cultural life, especially in classical music, although the institutions have suffered from the economic difficulties of the country. During the season, from mid-autumn to late spring, there are regular performances by the opera, ballet, national symphony, and smaller musical groups. The Organ Hall and the Philharmonic Hall are frequent venues for concerts by local ensembles and touring groups. In addition to classical music, traditional folk music is very popular; Moldovan ensembles such as Flueras and Lautari are well known throughout the former Soviet Union. The folk dance ensemble " Joc " is especially admired for its performances featuring traditional dances from throughout the region. Chisinau also has several theaters performing in Romanian and Russian.

The Chekhov Theater performs classic Russian plays as well as some modern works and translations. The Eugene Ionescu Theater performs avant-garde and modern plays in Romanian. Several other theaters feature musicals, satirical plays or traditional favorites. A puppet theater in the center of town offers regular performances in Russian and Romanian, and the Circus hosts a wide variety of touring groups in addition to local performers.

Moldova has a number of institutions of higher learning, including the State University and the Independent International University, plus several pedagogical institutes and polytechnical institutes. Moldova has a special interest in agricultural research, and the Academy of Science has a large number of highly qualified specialists in this area. English is now widely taught and increasingly used, especially among young people.

Commerce and Industry

Moldova had relatively little of the Soviet military-industrial complex. Much of its industrial capacity was concentrated in light industry such as radioelectronics, clothing, and food processing. The industrial sector throughout Moldova has suffered from declining output, lack of investment, loss of markets, inefficient production, higher energy costs and new competition from Western producers. Many of the big enterprises have not been fully restructured. Industrial production continued to decline in 1999. Moldova's best export prospects for the future are agroindustry and production of wine and cognac, if these can be upgraded to assure consistent quality.

Transportation

Automobiles

Poor road conditions and aggressive local driving habits increase the possibility that a car will need service and/or repair during its stay in Moldova. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is desirable and advisable in this environment.

A new former Soviet-made car can be purchased for from $3,000 to $8,000. Americans find the level of comfort and the quality of assembly to be below that of Western-made automobiles, but it is easier to get a former Soviet-made car repaired in Moldova than a Western-made car.

It is not possible to export a former Soviet-made car to the U.S., as it will not meet EPA standards. Unleaded gasoline is available and new Western-style gas stations with minimarkets and car washes are becoming common throughout Moldova.

There is a rental car service in Chisinau (dispatcher speaks English). Cars with drivers are available for hire. Americans have rented Western cars for driving around town and for longer trips. The rental rate for a car and a driver is $25 per day. Vans with a driver can be rented for $50 per day.

Local

There is an extensive bus and mini-bus system, with low fares, but these are very crowded and uncomfortable. Expatriates seldom use public transport. A few Americans have encountered nonviolent theft on crowded buses.

Taxis are available by telephone or on the main streets. Taxi stands offer a blend of modern vehicles and decrepit older models, and the passenger does get to choose among them. Rates are reasonable. Most local cab drivers speak only Russian or Romanian. One telephone dispatch company aimed at expatriates does have an English-speaker dispatcher and drivers who speak at least some English. Some expatriates rely heavily on this company, which charges a flat rate, about $3 per trip.

Between the cities and the towns of Moldova, trains and buses are available at relatively reasonable prices. There are no internal air flights in Moldova.

Regional

Air Moldova, Air Moldova International, Tyrolean Airlines, TAROM, Moldavian Airlines and Transaero serve Chisinau. The following major cities are served at least 3 days per week: Athens, Beirut, Bucharest, Budapest, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kiev, Moscow, Odessa, Paris, Tel Aviv, Vienna, and Warsaw. Americans can buy tickets in Chisinau for cash only: no travelers checks, credit cards, or other negotiable instruments.

American travelers have also gone to Kiev and Bucharest via train. It is less expensive than a plane, but it is a long, difficult trip. There is no heat in the winter or ventilation in the summer. Some travelers have had problems with border police on the train from Kiev.

Moldova and its neighbors have similar conditions for long-range driving. Moldova and all nearby countries use left-hand drive, have an extremely limited number of roads with more than two lanes, and have aggressive road police who often stop foreign cars. Carrying your diplomatic I.D. and/or your diplomatic passport at all times when driving is recommended, but especially when outside of Chisinau. In Moldova, the road police will usually not hinder any polite American diplomat carrying identification.

Travelers are advised to fill their tanks before they leave, although Moldova has seen a proliferation of gas stations along the major roads. Travelers should expect long lines at the borders. If you are in a vehicle with diplomatic plates and are carrying a diplomatic passport, you may slowly make your way to the front of the line and receive expeditious processing through the border. Russian-or Romanian-language skills are useful in these situations.

Communications

Telephone and Telegraph

Local telephone service is generally fair to good. Installation of new phones is possible but slow, as are repairs to existing lines. International calls to the U.S. and Europe can be placed via direct dial, and reception is generally good. Rates can vary between USD 1.50 to 3.00 per minute depending on the call. Overseas telegraph and Fax facilities, though available, are not always reliable. Cellular phone service is also available. The standard frequency is NMT analog. Cellular phones purchased in other countries, such as the U.S., can be used here but must be registered (cost is $300).

Radio and TV

There are two AM radio stations broadcasting daily with more scheduled to start soon. Several FM stations are also operating. All broadcast a variety of music and programs in Romanian and Russian with some English-language music interspersed. To receive shortwave broadcasts, such as the VOA and BBC, you need a good shortwave radio.

Moldova has one television station that broadcasts daily, mostly in the Romanian language. Moldova also receives two other stations, one from Bucharest in Romanian and the other from Moscow, in Russian. Shows cover the full range of local and international news plus sports, musical entertainment, locally produced plays, educational broadcasts, movies, and some American TV shows. Most programming is in Romanian or Russian with two or three movies and a few shorter programs shown weekly in English. TV is transmitted by the 625 PAL D/K European system, which can be picked up with a multisystem receiver. Some local electronics firms have opened, and multi-system televisions and VCR's are readily available. Moldova now has cable television. You can receive the above 3 stations plus 25 additional stations, 5 of which are in English, including CNN, EuroNews, and MTV HBO is available for an additional charge.

A number of private and commercial video libraries in Moldova rent tapes. These are all VHS cassettes for use with 625 PAL system equipment. The stock is mostly action-type and horror videos. All videos are in Russian. Bring a multisystem VHS videotape recorder and player if you want to rent from these collections.

Internet

Local service providers are available. The speed and reliability of E-mail service is inconsistent due to the limitations of the telephone system.

Health and Medicine

General Health Information

Local pharmacies in Moldova carry Western and local medicine but only a few of the supplies are in English. Aspirin (made in the U.S.) is available in most pharmacies. Bring a good supply of any necessary prescriptions, including contraceptives. If you have a chronic ailment, bring a large supply of the required medication.

Community Health

Weather and local sanitation can be a problem and aggravate certain health conditions. Garbage pick-up is often sporadic, but street sweeping is reliable, as is sewage disposal. Winter weather is hard because of fuel shortages, apartments and work sites often being irregularly heated. In winter, soot from burning wood and soft coal may aggravate sinus problems, asthma and allergies. Dust from unpaved roads and construction may also aggravate these conditions.

Drinking water and that used for cooking should be distilled, boiled, or filtered before using. After periods of disuse (about 8 hours), turn on taps and run water for a full 5 seconds prior to using for purifying. Running the water in such a way helps remove the lead that leaks out of the lead pipes found in most homes during periods of disuse. Bottled drinks are considered to be safe. Cholera has been identified in one of the suburban lakes near Chisinau and in some of Moldova's villages. Cholera can be prevented by treating drinking water and water used for cooking.

In addition, fruits and vegetables should be well washed, peeled, or cooked. These tend to be inexpensive during the summer but prove to be expensive in the winter.

AIDS and seropositive HIV have come to the forefront in Moldova as a public health problem, although there have been only about 20 cases registered. AIDS surveillance programs are being discussed in Moldova as well as programs for screening for HIV and Hepatitis B. Syphilis and tuberculosis are on the rise.

Preventive Measures

All immunizations must be current upon arrival. One should have Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B, rabies, and meningitis inoculations. Children should have up-to-date DPT, MMR, and HIB vaccines. Bring blood-type records and immunization cards for all family members. Bring fluoride drops and vitamins with fluoride for small children. Respiratory, orthopedic, or other disorders that prohibit climbing stairs should be considered before traveling to Moldova. In Moldova, usually one flight of stairs is required to enter a building, and once inside the building, stairs abound, with either no elevator or an occasionally nonfunctioning one. Western-quality prescription glasses are available locally; however, it would be prudent to bring an extra pair of glasses and/or a copy of your prescription.

NOTES FOR TRAVELERS

Passage, Customs & Duties

All flights to Moldova come into Chisinau airport, located roughly 6 miles (10 kilometers) from the city center. There are daily flights from Moscow, Budapest and Frankfurt, and several weekly flights from Paris, Bucharest, Vienna, and Warsaw, Prague and Bologna. Frankfurt is the most heavily used connection, with Budapest, Paris, and Vienna as good alternatives.

Chisinau may be reached by land from, with a drive that is very scenic but tiring. The eastern Carpathian Mountains in Romania require slow driving, even in good weather. Some travelers have taken a picturesque route through northern Transylvania and Bukovina, crossing the Carpathians near the Romanian city Suceava. Others have taken a southern route, crossing the Carpathians south of the Romanian city Brasov. Travelers may note that maps show routes over the mountains between these two points. These mountain passes can be dangerous and should be avoided without prior information on road conditions and weather.

Many gas stations are available enroute. Gasoline in Moldova and Romania may be purchased with local currency. Full-service stations (with windshield washing and oil checks) are available mainly in large cities, so be sure that your vehicle is in good condition before traveling. Carry spare belts, etc., for small emergency repairs on the road. In general, fill up the tank before traveling. Winter driving on Moldovan roads is hazardous, and you will not find places to stop should the need arise. Do not drive to Chisinau in winter. Avoid driving in threatening or treacherous weather no matter how sturdy or well equipped your car is. Bring nonperishable foods and soft drinks or bottled water for consumption on the road.

The drive to Chisinau can be made from Budapest in two driving days. From the Greek or Turkish borders driving to Chisinau should take about 24 hours. Roads in Eastern Europe are two lane, and traffic is light to moderate by Western standards. Encountering slow moving trucks, tractors, tractor-trailer trucks, bicycles, motorcycles, and horse-drawn carts is not unusual. Allow ample time for these inconveniences. Be sure your Moldovan visa is in order before arriving at the border.

Do not drive at night in Eastern Europe. The road and most vehicles are poorly lighted, and people and livestock are often in the middle of the road. Never drive fast and be alert to pedestrians (who fail, in most cases, to look before stepping out into traffic and other obstacles. In Moldova, pedestrians do not obey traffic signals, and the streets are dimly lit. Streets in Moldova are dimly lit. Caution is strongly advised for evening driving. Fog can be a problem in fall and winter. Highways can be slippery when wet and one must beware of dirt and mud left by farm vehicles. Become familiar with international road signs before driving into Moldova. Have available your car's registration papers and the internationally recognized "green card" third-party liability insurance.

Obtain an international drivers license before arriving, which is available in the U.S. from the American Automobile Association. You must have a valid U.S. or foreign license and maintain its validity.

Travel by car into Moldova from the West through the Albita-Leuseni crossing in Romania is the most convenient Romanian border crossing for international land traffic. Crossings by car at some other Moldovan-Romanian border posts are possible but are less convenient. A traveler should expect possible delays at immigration and customs going in both directions at the Albita-Leuseni crossing.

Travelers in cars should expect to be occasionally waved over by local police for routine inspections. Travelers driving by car into the Eastern region of the country Transnistria should expect to be stopped by Russian "Peacekeepers" and then by Transnistria border guards at the outskirts of Tighina (Bender) and when crossing over to the left bank driving toward Tiraspol. Depending upon where a traveler is driving in or around Transnistria, a car may be stopped by Transnistrian authorities, Russian forces, Moldovan police, or joint patrols consisting of two or three of the above. Discipline of forces in the security zone and at internal checkpoints in Transnistria is problematic at night. The city of Tighina (Bender) is in the security zone.

International rail connections are possible from Bucharest, Moscow, and Kiev. However, staff who have used these routes have not reported favorably about the experience. Some travelers have been victims of theft. Carefully check routes and train changes (if any) before boarding.

Bring plenty of food and snacks when traveling by car or train in Eastern Europe.

Personal airfreight is sometimes slow in arriving, even from points in Western Europe or the U.S. (make allowance for at least 3 weeks). Bring as much as you can in your accompanied baggage, especially seasonal clothing, toiletries, and any special medications.

Air Moldova will charge for hand baggage over 20 kilograms. If so, be sure to get a receipt. Have cases no larger than 28 inches (71 centimeters) high by 55 inches (140 centimeters) long by 43 inches (109 centimeters) wide. Larger cases will not fit into the cargo holds of some Air Moldova planes.

Immunization records are not routinely checked. Have an international license plate issued by the country of sale for new cars purchased in Europe. No special regulations restrict incoming baggage: use common sense, as incoming baggage may be X-rayed at the airport and a suspicious-looking item could cause problems.

Visas are required of American citizens traveling to (or transiting) Moldova. All visas must be obtained in advance of arrival from a Moldovan Embassy or Consulate. Only those U.S. citizens who can provide evidence that they reside in a country in which Moldova has no Embassy or Consulate are permitted to obtain a tourist/business visa at the Chisinau airport. No invitation is necessary. Any person applying for a visa for a stay of more than three months must present a certificate showing that the individual is HIV negative. Only tests performed at designated clinics in Moldova are accepted. For more information on entry requirements, please contact the Moldovan Embassy, 2101 S. Street N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone: (202) 667-1130, (202) 667-1131, or (202) 667-1137, fax: (202) 667-1204, e-mail: moldova@dgs.dgsys.com.

All foreign citizens staying in Moldova for more three days or longer are required to register with local authorities at the Office of Visas and Registration. The place of registration (usually, a district police station) depends on where a visitor is staying in Moldova. Most hotels will register guests automatically. The Embassy encourages U.S. citizens to ask about registration when checking into a hotel. U.S. citizens not staying in a hotel are responsible for registering with authorities. To find out exactly where to register, a U.S. citizen may call the central Office for Visas and Registration at (373) (2) 21-30-78, and be prepared to give the address of the residence in Moldova. Under Moldovan law, those who fail to register with authorities may be required to appear in court and pay a fine. For more information on registering with Moldovan authorities, U.S. citizens are encouraged to call the Consular section at the U.S. Embassy in Chisinau (373) (2) 40-83-00.

Americans living in or visiting Moldova are encouraged to register at the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Chisinau and obtain updated information on travel and security within Moldova. The U.S. Embassy is located in Chisinau, Moldova, Strada Alexei Mateevici 103; telephone (373)(2) 23-37-72, after-hours telephone (373)(2) 23-73-45.

Pets

No regulations restrict importing cats and dogs. Before arrival, pet owners should ensure that their pets are properly immunized and that they have immunization records (primarily rabies vaccine) and health certificate records, certified by a public health authority in the sending country. The health certificate should have been issued within 1 week prior to the animal's departure. Bring or ship any special needs such as worm medicine or particular food. Properly documented animals are cleared quickly through customs. Be sure all pet records are completely up-to-date before arrival.

Since local veterinarians do not always have vaccines, make sure your pet has all needed shots before you come. If you anticipate a need for particular medicines, ship a supply or make arrangements with a veterinarian to send additional supplies.

Chisinau has a large number of homeless cats and dogs that live on the streets. Pets (especially dogs) should only be allowed out of the homes when accompanied Another danger to domestic animals may be from rodent-control poison, which car be set out without notice around garbage areas, resulting in reports of accidents and poisoning.

Firearms and Ammunition

There is one hunting club in Moldova. Presently membership in this club is required of anyone who wishes to purchase a rifle.

Currency, Banking, and Weights and Measures

Since November 1993, the Moldovan currency has been the leu (plural, lei, fractions, bani). It is convertible on the current account, and trades at a market rate against any other market currency, though it is not a "hard" currency. Bank transfers can be made into Moldova and bank accounts in hard currency can be opened, but checking accounts are virtually unknown and personal checks are essentially non-negotiable. Traveler, checks are accepted by at least one bank, but commissions for cashing them for hard currencies are high (for lei transactions, the normal commission is 2%) Credit cards are only slowly becoming accepted for purchases, so that Moldova remains largely a cash economy. This is in transition, and some ATMs have ever come on-line. By law, all payments it Moldova must be made in lei, not in dollars.

Moldovan currency regulations stipulate that an incoming traveler may bring in any amount of foreign currency or travelers checks, but amounts must be stated in a declaration and a currency exchange declaration form (a loose piece of paper) is placed in the passport. Travelers should ensure this paper remains in the passport until departure from Moldova. When leaving Moldova, the traveler must show the same currency and checks as upon entry, or list any amount named in a certificate of exchange from the Moldovan National Bank. Moldovan authorities enforce this rule unpredictably. Moldovan authorities prohibit the import or export of Moldovan lei.

Moldova is on the metric system.

Crime

Crime is a growing problem in Moldova and especially in the larger cities. The violent crime rate has been relatively low but is a growing threat to foreigners. Car theft is a problem. Travel by car and in a group is relatively safe at night, but visitors are advised not to walk alone far from public places after dark.

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

Jan. 1 …New Year's Day

Jan. 7 …Christmas (Orthodox)

Mar. 8…International Women's Day

Apr/May.…Easter^*

Apr/May.…Easter Monday^*

May 1…Labor Day

May 9…Victory Day

Aug. 27…National Day

Aug. 31…Our Language

^*variable

RECOMMENDED READING

These titles are provided as a general indication of the material published in this country.

Dima, Nicolae. From Moldavia to Moldova.

Fonseca, Isabel. Bury Me Standing: the Gypsies and Their Journey. New York: Vintage Press, 1995.

Goma, Paul. My Childhood at the Gates of Unrest. Columbia, La.: Readers International, Inc., 1990.

Horton, Nancy. Chisinau, Moldova: The Essential Guide. Chisinau: Lonely Peasant Publications, 1999.

King, Charles. The Moldovans: Romania, Russia, and the Politics of Culture. Stanford: Hoover Institution Press, 1999

Sugar, Pete S. Southeastern Europe Under Ottoman Rule, 1354-1804. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1977.